Like others have said, I’d give scraping it off with a razor blade a try, glass is actually significantly harder than the steel of the razor so it’s difficult or impossible to scratch your glass with the blade. Razors are cheap and readily available (if you don’t already have some kicking around) so you have basically nothing to loose by trying it. Also mentioned we’re magic erasers/melamine sponges, also a pretty solid bet, they basically work like micro sandpaper.
Failing that, I’m no chemist, but from googling around a bit for siloxane and solvents, I think your best bet for solvents youre likely to find at most hardware stores are mineral spirits, turpentine, and xylene, which should all be readily available in most hardware stores in the paint section with other paint thinners. From what I could find, it kind of looks like you’re going to want a non-polar solvent, not a polar solvent like acetone. They may dissolve it outright, or may at least soften it up enough for you to scrub or scrape it off easier.
Also what I gleaned from Google, is that siloxanes are basically silicone, so you may also have luck with products to remove silicone caulk, I know goo gone makes a product for that purpose (although it looks like the main ingredients in that stuff are acetone and benzyl alcohol, which are both polar solvents, so I have no idea how that jives with what I was getting from my other Google searches that suggested non-polar solvents, so again, I’m not a chemist and I’m out of my element)
Any solvents you end up trying, just make sure you’re following proper safety precautions, and be careful about anything else you may spray, drip, splash it on, you might ruin finishes, strip paint, damage plastics, etc.
There’s a few ways you can tackle this with various degrees of rightness.
First of all, your door looks to be hung upside down. That’s not going to affect the fit of the door but it is going to put your doorknob at an awkward height.
Your best bet is probably going to be to go get a new, pre-hung door, and replace the entire thing, frame and all. It’s really not that hard, just kind of fiddly getting everything squared up properly. You can probably get it done for less than $200, and a few hours of work with a friend or two.
Second best bet is going to be to square up the existing frame, get yourself some shims a prybar, and some nails, pull off all the trim, and set it right.
In my experience, trying to get a new door to fit right in an existing frame is always kind of a pain in the ass. It sounds like more work, but it’s usually worth it to go the pre-hung route.
There’s lots of guides and YouTube videos on how to do all of that.
Least right- start modifying the door and/or frame so they fit. Cut, plane, chisel, and/or sand the door and frame down until they fit. Yes, the door is probably hollow, but you should still have probably about an inch or so of solid framing around the perimeter of it to work with. There’s a good chance if you go this route you’re going to find it looks kind of wonky and you’re going to wish you did one of the above options.
You could always of course pay someone to do it the right way. Shouldn’t be terribly expensive, I’m a cheapskate and will DIY most things, but I have a personal dislike of installing doors, so it’s something I’d be willing to pay for.
Depending on how you can rearrange furniture, how much wall space you have next to the door, etc. you could also go with barn doors and just bypass the crooked frame entirely. I hat barn doors, I think they just look bad in pretty much all cases, but they’re popular for some reason and pretty straightforward to install.
Depending on your tastes and how much of an actual barrier you need, may also be able to get away with bifold doors, a curtain, cafe/batwing/saloon doors.