Great project, I like that you went all in and installed the solar panels - there is a nonzero chance I would have tested it with only a battery first, therefore creating a suboptimal solution that would have stayed around far too long, endlessly bugging me in the process.
Just one remark: the mailbox is so nice, you should definitely route a channel in the treated pine to hide / protect the blue cable better, that’d make it perfect.
Slight nitpick: Brymen handheld meters often have better specs in the handheld market, in particular when you are looking at a fixed price point.
You see a lot of Fluke meters around due to service agreement, as well as government and military contracts.
Don’t get me wrong, meters are fine, but there is no reason to spend that kinda money at home, unless the service manual of your washing machine explicitly states all measurements are to be done by a Fluke meter.
Latest kernel update restarted my session (closing all programs, including my terminal) before mkinitcpio, easy fix, but yeah, did require live boot media.
They do make managed switches, but just to be completely clear, my comment was mostly hyperbole. I just found the general combination of security - mindedness and cheap Chinese hardware curious / amusing.
I was wondering… that tp-link probably negates anything remotely resembling security on its own. But yeah, you can update some of these noname boxes easily, others, not so much.
I have dealt with (in a professional capacity) Chinese manufacturers that are under the impression they do not have to provide a working build tree for the kernel, let alone firmware, so its a gamble if you’re not talking to a major Chinese name brand. Mind you, I was ordering hundreds of those boxes, so there was some leverage.
Yeah, but they made the thread and mentioned not speaking English well enough and they were really getting confused and anxious by a bunch of us claiming the only way to turn this situation around is to demolish the building - at that point, some helpful reassurance was in order.
The gist of what I said was: the wall is fine, the manufacturer assures a point load of 70kg for the installation layer (so basically 70kg per screw), looking at some local regulations will give you an idea of how heavy a kitchen wall cabinet can get (going at it from this angle is helpful in case you need to discuss liabilities at some point), distribute that load over screws mounted at proper distances, add a safety margin and you should be good.
Noch etwas: die beste Methode ist wirklich, sich mit Bleistift vor der Montage der Gipskartonplatten die Lage der Hoelzer zu markieren.
Falls du das an einer Stelle vergessen hast, kannst du spaeter immer noch einen stud finder verwenden. Ich kenne die amerikanischen brands, habe aber mittlerweile auch solche Geraete gebraucht und getestet.
Der gruene stud finder von Bosch ist trash, aber der GSM120 aus der professional Reihe funktioniert gut:
https://www.bosch-professional.com/de/de/products/gms-120-0601081000
Findet auch elektrische Leitung und Rohre
Don’t be alarmed, your wall is fine, people in the other thread simply didn’t understand that you’re not in the US and assumed what you were showing in your pictures was the DIY’ed framing for an actual, load bearing wall.
The comment mentioned you should tear down your wall was also directed at that, they assumed you had constructed a load bearing wall from levitating 2x2s and OSB board, in which you probably would want to start over,but that’s not the case. Wall’s fine.
I posted a comment in the other thread as well, you might want to check that out.
I’ll answer this one in German since this is my time to shine. Let me just say, the wall is perfectly fine, what we see is just another layer of OSB board for ease of installation on top of the actual wall behind it (which is well framed and insulated).
Dies ist ein sehr unterhaltsamer thread fuer mich, da ich beide Seiten verstehen kann.
Auf der Webseite von Wolf Haus ist die Installationsebene aus OSB zu sehen, die angegebene Punktlast ist 70kg pro Schraube. Wenn du sicherstellst, das deine Schrauben durch die Kanthoelzer in die OSB-Platte gehen, solltest du dich auf diese Angaben verlassen koennen, also eine Schraube haelt dann 70kg.
Deutschland hat selbstverstaendlich auch eine Norm fuer Kuechenmoebel, DIN 68930. Da bekommst du ein Gefuehl dafuer, wie schwer Kuechenschraenke werden koennen. Die Nachbarn in der Schweiz verwenden die Norm SN EN 14749, zum Vergleich. Es ist nicht ungewoehnlich, einen Schrank (wall cabinet) mit 120kg Belastung zu testen.
Beachte bitte auch die Distanz der Schrauben, man darf nicht zu nah oder zu weit setzen. Ich habe das hier auf Deutsch gefunden:
https://www.huettemann.de/lagerkatalog/download/osb4_belastung.pdf
Ich wuerde immer mit einem margin zur Sicherheit rechnen, vielleicht 20%. Eine Schraube haelt dann also 0.8x70kg = 56kg. Wenn du die Distanzen beachtest und dir das Gewicht deines Schrankes ausrechnest und auf entsprechend viele Schrauben verteilst, solltest du safe sein.
Ich gehe natuerlich davon aus, das die Installationsebene von Wolf Haus fachgerecht konstruiert wurde.
Der Poster ueber dir sprach allgemein uber dir Berechnung der Durchbiegung von Balken, hier die 60x60mm Kanthoelzer.
Please have a look at the images he posted, the wall is absolutely fine. The images he posted are just the inner installation layer, the structural wall and insulation are behind that.
You’re right. After moving to Germany, I can tell there is nothing wrong with this picture, but it sure looks crazy out of context.
Interestingly enough, most residential houses I looked at had solid, steel reinforced concrete walls everywhere.
I can second that. We had some really good experiences with ClickHouse and its performance. If it fits the bill, it’s a very nice piece of software.
Hey, great that you chimed in, I agree with the points you’re making. As for my remark regarding amplitude, what I wanted to convey was: in the measurement scenario using the PhyBox smartphone app, OP should see an overall smaller signal envelope if the NAS was properly decoupled, compared to the previous plot.
As for your comment regarding the Nyquist theorem, PhyBox maintains a list of devices and their sensors so it would be possible to lookup the available sampling frequency. There are other factors potentially limiting the sample rate (e. g. switching offl microphone access for the app on Android), but it’s a good starting point.
However, I think we agree this should be solvable without much theoretical effort.
Honestly, I think your approach using the MEMS accelerometer in your smartphone is fine - just make sure to tape the back of your phone firmly to the board to get a rigid connection. This will be of particular importance if you want to do any kind of tuning, as you might measure spurious frequencies if the device is not properly attached.
Smartphone accelerometers are actually used in civil engineering / industrial applications to determine frequencies of e. g. bridges or check for bearing wear. If you are interested, here are some papers:
https://www.scielo.br/j/lajss/a/ZnWZ8T86HHBLFvdksCh7g9s/?lang=en
https://www.mdpi.com/1424-8220/19/14/3143
https://www.mdpi.com/1424-8220/15/2/2980
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9824767/
That being said, the accuracy of the frequency readings is not super important for your application, as what you are after is pretty much only a reduction in amplitude. I would assume spinning hard drives show different responses to different vibrational frequencies, but I did not have the time to research this myself. However, here are two papers that explore what you are trying to do, which I will link since they also mention a few related papers that show the impact of vibrations on hard drives:
https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s00542-012-1592-z
https://content.iospress.com/articles/shock-and-vibration/sav00458
This would in theory incentivise to optimize dampening certain frequencies, but I suspect you will quickly get into the realm of overengineering / premature optimization, as the dampening might be good enough to tune out all relevant frequencies without simulations or tuning etc. However, it’s still certainly a worthwhile effort for educational purposes though.
As for a practical approach, I’d probably simply start out with some super cheap foam obtained at the nearest home improvement or crafts store and see how a sandwich using that affects signal amplitude. You could even introduce artifical vibrations using a DC motor with a weight mounted off-center on the shaft, which you can get ready-made for next to nothing on eBay (“vibration motor”, ~ $2).
If you want to get into tuning / experiment / analysis territory, I would like to include additional motivation. Not only might proper decoupling increase the lifetime of your drives, but it could also improve performance. I will include the following video as humorous proof of that:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tDacjrSCeq4
P.S.: I firmly believe that research should be freely accessible, so I feel obligated to mention that all papers linked above are, if not available for free on their respective webpages, obtainable via a certain scientific hub.
I believe it doesn’t really matter much whether you want to protect the environment from vibrations of the machine vs. protecting the machine from vibrations of the environment - in both cases, decoupling the systems is what you want to achieve.
Eventually, you want to build a TMD: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tuned_mass_damper
I personally had to deal with the case of a large format CNC machine transferring stepper motor vibrations into an adjacent office via the wall-mounted brackets it was sitting on. People started to complain shortly after installation since the noise was very audible in the otherwise quiet working environment.
The solution involved placing the machine on a plate mounted via rubber decouplers (see https://www.dayco.com/en/product/decouplers) which in turn was mounted to a shop-built TMD using a rubber core sandwiched between two foam plates. The rubber core works as both mass and absorbs additional vibrations. It was built following a paper, but unfortunately, that was around 7 years ago and I’m not sure I’ll be able to dig the publication out again.
You can in fact simulate the TMD and do the tuning (see for example https://www.mathworks.com/help/simscape/ug/mass-spring-damper-in-simulink-and-simscape.html , though dedicated software packages also exist) but in all honesty, that will probably be overkill for your case.
Having your NAS sit on a 1/2" board of baltic birch plywood resting on a foam sandwich is probably going to do the trick in your case. You can easily create such a sandwich using foam, a rubber mat and some spray glue. Different foam densities will give different results and yield different “tunings” - you may have to play around with this a bit. I could imagine you’ll most likely even be able to skip the second decoupling step (rubber feet/decouplers), in the aforementioned case the second decoupling allowed for another set of frequencies to be dampened (via a different overall rubber hardness) but also brought overall amplitude down.
Don’t use super soft foam, as this will yield a wobbly base, something you probably want to avoid for your NAS. Also, make sure not to attach the base board to anything else apart from the foam, or you’ll transmit vibrations again. If you don’t like the appearance of the foam, you can build a small fence around it that goes up to the top of the base plate.
All that being said, there are also ready-made solutions like speaker dampening feet available: https://www.amazon.com/Tertullus-Speaker-Isolation-Feet-Anti-Vibration/dp/B09QC2L7N3
Most of them are made to decouple subwoofers, so they might fit into the frequency spectrum you specified. Those couls certainly be an affordable and rather quick way to solve the problem.
lspci will read the vendor and device id via PCI and use that to determine what the device is. You might want to make the output a bit more digestable / useful via
lspci -s 03:00.0 -k -nn, but I’d assume the ids that match an 2070 will show up.Could you please take the card out and provide us with a few pictures from different angles, maybe getting a good look at the actual chips?
I’d like to rule that out before chasing rabbits here.
Also, you could always run
nvidia-settings, which will show information about an NVIDIA card using a different access method.I’d still like to see the pictures of the card though ;)