replying to myself here, but also, if this where supposed to work, which I doubt it will because it’s not feasible with tcpip, your second router would need to have the first router as gateway, but that is not possible when they are on the same subnet, and also your router will most likely not allow it because nat/routing will break, but if this was possible, devices behind your second router would not be able to connect to the devices before and vice versa, because since they have the same subnet, the traffic is considered local and not going through the router, and therefore the will not see each other as the NAT provides a separation between the networks…

you cannot use a router as a switch without using routing and different subnets … so … you might want to reconsider your design

Might be conflicts due to several routers using the same subnet… could cause some interesting ARP issues for the switches, and also DHCP conflicts if something is wrongly cabled / configured.

I would try disconnecting everything from after the first switch, connect a computer there to see if it works ok, then reconnect and test behind each step to see where it breaks instead of checking in the end where the problem could be agitated from a issue earlier in the network…

also, if the router has a firewall/nat you will not be able to reach anything behind it, even if there are different subnets being used… to be able to reach devices behind a router, the network would need to be routed and not nat’ed as nat combines all network traffic into the IP of the router before sending the traffic away, so clients on the other side has no way of knowing who or where the traffic came from after the nat’ed router.

I suggest you read up about this if you are not familiar with difference between NAT and routed traffic.

anyway, this is just my theory, hope you find your problem and get it sorted :)

(edit added part about nat)

example picture of a wall where fittings have been applied to a wall with the same type of issue with rotting sidings, the principles are the same, though the issue in this case is further up.

It’s from this article, it’s in Norwegian, but you should be able to translate it using Google translate if it’s something you want to read.

https://gjoerdetselv.com/hus/fasade/kledning/skjul-ratne-kledningsbord

if it’s the last one, you can add an aluminum fitting to the end of the siding, or a fitting of some other material that handles outdoor conditions. By doing this you hide the end of the wall from the elements, it is durable, easy to replace and if you choose the right one it can look good as well. This will also enable you to just remove the rotten part in the bottom of the siding, unless the rot has spread deep or high in the construction, as the fitting will close and blend the cutter part. Just make sure to leave a small opening at the bottom of the fitting, to let the water escape, or you can seal it properly, as the fitting will not take water damage like wood, and is more easily to replace if needed.

If there is a slope the water will not run upwards, and the water on the siding should run down to the ground and away as well. The siding panels should also be painted with outdoor paint also on the bottom so the water cannot penetrate in the cuts at the bottom of the siding. The small amount of time before it drains away will not cause it to rot as long as it’s treated in all the cuts, it’s the still water over time that causes the wall to rot.

Or do you mean there is nothing else behind these boards, so if you cut them there will be an open gap between the siding and the concrete?

Leave a gap between the concrete and the siding, so that the water can run away/evaporate before it reaches the wood. Also make sure that the water flows away from the siding when it rains, and not up against it.

There should be a small slope away from the siding, so the water is not retained there, but leads away to avoid further damage to the siding/construction.

In Norway where I live, all houses have a clearing of 2-3 cm at least between the concrete and wood, and the floor is made so the water runs away from the building to avoid exactly this issue, because of the amount of rain and sometimes melted snow during the seasons. It’s part of the building code for houses.

Best of luck to you in getting this sorted out, make sure you get all the damaged parts out, so you avoid secret problems later on.

Have you tried inserting a screw in the opening of the pin and pulling it using the now attached screw as a handle? Or gluing it if screwing is not possible and then pulling?